Pizza Mario

Pizza Mario

St Margaret's, Ivy Shop 9, 417-421 Bourke Street, Surry Hills. Phone: 9332 3633

Tucked away in a windy courtyard, Mario's is a place of worship for Sydney's pizza faithful. An accredited member of Italy's Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, owner and pizzaiolo David Cowdrill is a true defender of the Neapolitan style. This means the dough is shaped only with the hands; the oven is wood-burning; the pizza is cooked directly on the oven floor; the crust is soft, well-cooked and fragrant; and the toppings are "not in conflict with the rules of gastronomy". The result is purist pizza - crusty, puffy, not overloaded with toppings and designed to be eaten in the hand. The Margherita Extra (buffalo mozzarella, parmesan, fresh tomato, basil, $25) is the city's benchmark and the Patate (potato, sea salt, rosemary, $14) is simplicity itself.

Beyond pizza: Check the blackboard for seasonal specials such as figs and prosciutto or golden deep-fried gamberetti (school prawns).

SMH